Jaipur, Udaipur, Jaisalmer are the
cities we have visited in Rajasthan and S and I were keen to complete our tour
of the state by visiting Jodhpur. Sure, there are lots of other places worth
visiting in Rajasthan - we haven't done Bikaner, Ranthambore, Sekhawati,
Pushkar etc. But to be very honest, I'm kind of done with the state. There's
only so much royalty and architecture and heritage that one can digest and I
guess I've had my fill of it. Plus keeping the various royal families, clans
and dates straight in my head was not happening! I always tell friends and
relatives who are planing to visit Rajasthan to try to avoid going the whole
nine yards and visiting all the cities in one go. It gets extremely
overwhelming and at the end of the week or 10 days, one is exhausted to say the
least.
In any case, we had Jodhpur to see and
a nice ITC hotels free night voucher to be used! So we went ahead and booked
ourselves into one of Jodhpur's swankiest properties. The only advantage of
having a travelling husband :) Jodhpur is a convenient overnight journey from
Delhi. We boarded the train at 6.30 pm from Gurgaon, and reached Jodhpur at the
unearthly hours of 4.45 am! It was cold...brrrr.....and the hotel pickup failed
to arrive. It was not a pleasant experience haggling with the taxi-wallahs who
on hearing the name of the hotel, promptly charged us at triple rates! We
reached our hotel around 5.30 am and were happy to warm ourselves with some
warm cocoa (for the kids) and hot chai (for the adults).
Our room was actually a suite with 2
TVs, 2 bathrooms and so on. The restaurant on the same floor had a superb view
of the Balsamand lake over which the palace-hotel had been built. Hurray for
private lakes that don't have boating facilities, food vendors and trash - this
was my only thought. The large lake was pristine and clean, enclosed by stony
hillocks and really, it could have been anywhere in the world but India; it was
that clean, calm and unspoilt.
Having failed to get the kids to make
up for lost sleep, we decided to set off as early as we could to see what there
was to see in Jodhpur. Mehrangarh Fort, Jaswant Thada (cenotaphs of the Jodha
Marwars), Umaid Bhavan palace (the part that has not been turned into a Taj Hotel)
and Mandore Gardens are part of the standard itinerary. Mehrangarh Fort was
quite impressive, and not just because it made for a majestic sight on a cold
crisp winter's day, the golden yellow sandstone looking even warmer by sunlight
and countless flags of the princely state of Marwar fluttering in the brisk
breeze. It was impressive because it had good signage everywhere for visitors,
clean loos, audio guides and was generally extremely well-maintained by the
Trust that runs it. In addition, there was a standard guide fee to be paid at
the entrance kiosk itself which was a relief as one did not have to haggle over
a guide's services.
The fort also was the first place in so
many years that my kids were scolded in public by someone other than family! They
had been behaving in a pretty pesky manner and I am afraid both S and I have to
take the blame. They were tired, sleep-deprived and then we bring them to a
boring old fort! I broke several of my own cardinal rules about travelling with
kids! The minimum I could have done (and in our defence, this is something we
would in the normal course have done - well, we were sleep-deprived and tired
as well!) was for one of us to have taken them outside the museum and
entertained them while the other person walked around and listened to the
guide. Since we did not do so, they were mightily scolded by another guide who
said "Main tumhe choohon ke kamre mein lock kar doonga!" The white
lady next to him looked shocked - probably she was wondering how to reach Child
Services!
We stopped for lunch at this place
which served an awesome Rajasthani thali. While the kids stuck to boring and
safe paneer and naan, S and I indulged in gastronomic delights like Gatte
ki sabji, Ker-sangri, Kadhi and Bajre ki roti. Bliss!
Back at the hotel, we watched the sun
setting over the lake and hillocks before turning in early. It had been a long
day.
We didn't do much the next day except for a fruitless trip all the way
to Guda Bishnoi Lake to see migratory birds. There were more birds back at our
hotel grounds! Ads was quite disappointed, as was I. But the silver lining is
that we are going to Bharatpur next weekend and hopefully that will make up for
lost time! Ads is super-excited at the prospect of seeing the many birds of his
dreams :)